Of all the vegetables I have grown recently, none are quite as mysterious as salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius). Almost never available in stores and only rarely present at the farmers market, salsify persists in modernity primarily as a roadside weed and has fallen from our dietary graces in a major way. It has a long history of human use, however, with its first recorded use being in Roman times. Salsify used to be a mainstay of European gardens and popular enough in early American ones to spread across the American continent. But now? Salsify is essentially a curiosity, a food only touched by gourmets and those who grow it themselves. If it is good enough for Pliny the Elder, however, it is something I should try so I obtained some seeds of the cultivar ‘Mammoth Sandwich Island’ and planted them out in the spring.
Attractiveness:
The plant is fairly unassuming in its first year, appearing similar to a low-growing grass with thick blades. The next year salsify sends up long flower stalks that open into pretty purple flowers, though most who grow this plant will not see these unless they are saving seed.
Ease of Cultivation:
In my climate (8b Oregon, Willamette Valley), very easy. This plant can become weedy if allowed to flower. I grew it in a deep loose soil to aid in harvest, watering regularly. It tolerated skipped watering multiple times and grew well even during a record heatwave, tolerating temperatures of 110-118 degrees Fahrenheit/90-95 Fahrenheit at night for multiple days with no perceptible damage. Also seemed just fine to weather our first few frosts before I got around to harvesting it.
Ease of Propagation:
Simple. Seeds are easy to harvest and easy to sow in the early spring. Not bothered much by critters when young. Seeds have been reported to lose viability quite quickly, though, so use fresh seed if possible.
Ease of Harvest and Storage:
Pretty easy. I harvested them in the early fall to make room for a winter crop, placing the dirt-covered roots in a 5-gallon pail covered with a lid. They have lasted fairly well for about 4 months, simply left outside next to my tool shed. This is despite multiple freezes, snow, and a dip down into the low twenties. Some of the roots have spots of some kind of rot, which was easy enough to cut off, but might compromise further storage.
Ease of Processing:
Annoying. The roots branch heavily and hold on to quite a bit of earth. I break the roots into straight sections, then peel them. The roots will oxidize once peeled, so if you care about that it is best to soak them in lemon water to keep them looking fresh.
Taste:
Salsify leaves, flowering shoots, and roots are both edible. I tried leaves that had sprouted during the storage process, so they were very pale. Their flavor was mild, almost like a more mineral-ly lettuce, and their texture good. The roots are a different beast; the flavor is rather unusual. I found it pleasant, almost like burdock with a far better texture (like a carrot) and a mineral/ocean tang. My wife, however, found them fishy and gross. We tried them roasted, raw, and in a stew. The flavor intensifies with cooking: the raw salsify I ate was fairly bland, just slightly sweet. Kind of a like a dry carrot without the carrot taste.
Overall:
I will grow the rest of my seeds out next year. Though it grew well, I will likely not grow this plant in large amounts in favor of roots my wife enjoys eating, as well as those that are easier to process. It will live on in my garden, however, as an occasional bit of variety in our diets and as a buffer against the dramatic climate swings that seems to be happening more regularly, as salsify tolerates these with ease.
If you want to try something new, try salsify. It’s easy to grow and not a common plant to find on grocery store shelves. You may find it particularly delicious if you like seafood flavors, as the flavor of salsify is often compared to oysters.